European Vintage Round-up
Staying up to date on the quality of growing years from Europe has always been a bit more challenging than being aware of vintage variations here at home. With many changes in the “wine press” industry, including the sale of Rober Parker’s Wine Advocate, and the slippage of the Wine Spectator further down the “advertising driven slope” it is even more difficult than ever. Because of wine making style in Europe versus the US, vintage conditions take on an out sized importance in the quality of bottles each and every year.
Staying up to date on the quality of growing years from Europe has always been a bit more challenging than being aware of vintage variations here at home. With many changes in the “wine press” industry, including the sale of Rober Parker’s Wine Advocate, and the slippage of the Wine Spectator further down the “advertising driven slope” it is even more difficult than ever. Because of wine making style in Europe versus the US, vintage conditions take on an out sized importance in the quality of bottles each and every year.
I recently had conversations and email exchanges with several wine professionals whose palates I respect most to get their take on the latest “Old World” vintages that will provide all wine consumers with some guide posts on what to look for.
Prior to the recent run of very good years in Europe the best years were 2010, 2011 and 2015. For the great back to back years of ’10 and ’11 most all of the wines are gone. The only wine we see still coming to market from then are the most age worthy reserve wines that require that kind of time in the bottle. Given the age worthiness of these appellations that are still out there you can buy them with confidence. Similarly, for 2015 it is tough to go wrong buying European wines from this year. Here too though we are seeing fewer and fewer available to be bought. When you see them buy them!
Much of the commentary we discussed with our colleagues is all in the context of comparing years to 2015. It is after all an exalted vintage across “the continent” by every wine critic and wine professional. I have always said, only partly in jest, is that the best way to get 10 opinions on any wine or wine related subject is to ask the same question of 5 wine professionals, at some point we will all begin to argue both sides of any subject. So, let that be the caveat as you sum up the following for your own application.
We are thankfully in a very good to great string of vintages. 2016 is a great follow to 2015. Although a smaller crop in 2016 across the board. It was a classic year in Burgundy, the wines are a bit less ripe and fruit forward but a more classic European group of wines. 2016 however is better for Bordeaux both critics and consumer alike appreciate the ‘16s better.
Across Italy 2016 is being heralded as a fabulous year. Many of the winemakers like their ‘16s better which is really saying something. I was in Italy in the fall of 2015 at harvest and praise of that year was over the top, so saying growers and winemakers like it better is really remarkable. Our good friend John Lancaster opined that for Tuscany he likes 2015 over 2016, and in Piedmont he prefers 2016 over 2015.
Moving back to France the Rhone wines from both 2015 and 2016 are great, but the ’17 vintage is a notch below in quality. This seems to be the trend across appellations too. ’17 was a very good vintage in Burgundy, with white Burgundy for that year scoring a notch higher than red. 2017 in Bordeaux won’t receive much attention because it is book-ended by stunning years. Across Italy, similarly 2017 is a very good year but it is both a tough follow after ’15 and ’16 and a challenging preamble to 2018. Since Piedmont is a much cooler growing region 2017 wines from there should be purchased with caution. Be selective and buy after you try.
While many red wines from 2018 are still in the barrel it is being viewed as a year very similar to 2015. Big ripe wines, more fruit forward and American in style, drink it now style of wines. With the appeal of less austere European wines here in The States, the ‘18s can be bought with confidence as they start to be released.
Specifically, in Bordeaux the 2018 wines are ripe and showy, but this is being tempered by the enthusiasm for 2019 Bordeaux. The growing conditions were near perfect and the wines being sampled from barrel are showing a classic edge of both youthful exuberance and great Bordeaux age worthiness. Some of the most respected palates in the business are comparing 2019 to the 1982 vintage, considered by some to be the best ever in Bordeaux. Time will tell once the wines get to release but it is tough to ignore the universal enthusiasm.
The guidance of your favorite wine professional is always key when it comes to stocking up on European wines, but hopefully this “cheat sheet” will give you some help the next time you are perusing a wine list. You are always welcome to stop by the shop or give us a call with your more specific questions.
Comments
Be the first to comment...